posted 11-05-2012 01:00 PM
My personal opinion — given that it's more of a "toy" than a true-scale model, I'd say that if you want to build it — go ahead!
If you have it on display, it may fade a little bit — possibly the red colors will fade the most, as red colors in general seem to be more UV-sensitive. If you can keep it stored indoors with proper climate control (A/C or heat as needed) I think the cardboard will hold up fine, high humidity or moisture would be the greatest enemy to the cardboard.
I'd suggest using some archival-grade matboard adhesive/ foam-board glue. Check hobby/craft stores for this, as it will last better/longer than a regular "Elmer's" type white school glue. If the seams are not overlapped, you may have to add some internal or "hidden" tabs to provide a better surface for the joints.
I don't think the collectible market will accrue any significant value to this item- but if you want to preserve it unbuilt, then one other option would be to make full 1:1 color copies of the cardboard pieces at an engineering/large-format reproduction shop. You can even source some heavy 100lb paper stock to copy on, and then mount to appropriate thickness of poster board to replicate the original.
You would then build from that (FedEx/Kinko's may be able to do this type of copying, or check online). The silver color may not be quite perfect, as it will probably be more of a gray, given that most color copiers will replicate that using a 4-color CYMK process, not the true silver ink that the original pieces may have been printed on.
Another comment, I'd avoid spraying any type of varnish/urethane/paint-fixitive on the assembled model, as invariably those coating will typically yellow over time. And the evaporative solvent in most coatings may react unfavorably with the original paper and ink surface of the model.
As for the colors fading, you won't be able to entirely prevent it if it's on display, but you could take some digital images of the assembled pieces accompanied by a color target for archival purposes (such as the Kodak Professional Color Q-60 target). Make sure the images include both the model and the target.
Then, over time, if the model fades you can compare to the original images for color comparison and calibration.