Space News
space history and artifacts articles

Messages
space history discussion forums

Sightings
worldwide astronaut appearances

Resources
selected space history documents

  collectSPACE: Messages
  Models & Toys
  Basic model repair (glue for broken parts)?

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Basic model repair (glue for broken parts)?
wmk
Member

Posts: 76
From: Carlsbad, CA
Registered: Nov 2007

posted 08-20-2009 11:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for wmk   Click Here to Email wmk     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I’m not a model builder, but have a few models that need some repair.

I have a few plastic pieces that have broken off my lunar modules (i.e., Franklin Mint and Danbury Mint models). For items like antennas which easily break off and don't have much surface area for gluing (like the end of a narrow support strut) is there a preferred method for secure repair? I have had some success with using a single tiny drop of crazy glue, but sometimes that is very difficult due to the nature of the limited contact surface (almost like trying to glue the end of a tooth pick to something). I guess I have two basic questions:

  1. What type of glue is recommended for this type of repair assuming the two parts are plastic (crazy glue, testers model glue, or ???)
  2. What is the best technique for making the repair? Any special tips for how to go about gluing them back together? I find the hardest part is holding the pieces still while the glue dries.
I have noticed that crazy glue can tend to "melt" or slightly meld the plastic so not sure if that is too strong an adhesive.

When a part breaks off I try to match it up in the correct orientation and alignment to get a secure fit but that's pretty hard to do hard to do so I have also considered gently sanding the surfaces flat for better contact but am reluctant to alter the pieces too much.

Once the joint is repaired I assume some touch up might be recommended at the joint area, but just getting a solid/secure joint would make me very pleased.

Thanks for any help. Bill

apolloprojeckt
Member

Posts: 1447
From: Arnhem, Netherlands
Registered: Feb 2009

posted 08-21-2009 08:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for apolloprojeckt   Click Here to Email apolloprojeckt     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hello Bill, I use for all my models super gleu of bizon.

One tip, I lay it first a few hours in the refrigerator so it is thicker and better for using.

Jay Chladek
Member

Posts: 2272
From: Bellevue, NE, USA
Registered: Aug 2007

posted 08-21-2009 12:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jay Chladek   Click Here to Email Jay Chladek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Use of glue will depend on the material. If it is styrene to styrene, then a plastic weld glue will probably work best (Testors, Ambroid Proweld, Tenax 7R). Dissimilar materials (i.e. plastic to metal or to wood) would best utilize Super glues and/or epoxies.

Biggest concern with CA type glues (Cyano Acrylate, aka Super glue) is they tend to get brittle and have their best bonding in one direction (the gluing direction). Give the part a good side knock and it can break the bond. But there are rubber toughened CA glues available now that have a little bit of rubber in them to help the joint to flex slightly. These might work well. You can usually find them at most decent hobby shops that stock supplies for modelers and RC aircraft fliers. Bob Smith Industries makes three varieties of rubber toughened CA, one is black in color and the other two are clear. The black works well and so does the pink label stuff (clear gap filling flexible, part # BSI120). BSI glues or equivalent brands can be found in many hobby shops and they usually have the address of the store printed right on the bottle.

Another advantage of this stuff over Krazy Glue is it tends to produce stronger bonds. Reason being is over the counter Super Glue and Krazy glue has preservatives in it to give it longer shelf life. Hobby glues do not (hence they only last six months once opened), but they do bond better.

Epoxies are potentially higher strength, but the slower cure ones are the best and they can be challenging to use since the part needs to be braced in position while the glue sets up. They would probably be best useful if a hole for the antenna part can be tapped (drilled) into the model as opposed to flush mounting it on the break site.

wmk
Member

Posts: 76
From: Carlsbad, CA
Registered: Nov 2007

posted 08-21-2009 05:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for wmk   Click Here to Email wmk     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks so much for the advise. I'll check it out.

divemaster
Member

Posts: 1376
From: ridgefield, ct
Registered: May 2002

posted 08-22-2009 11:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for divemaster   Click Here to Email divemaster     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
CA and toothpicks. Your best friends.

All times are CT (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | The Source for Space History & Artifacts

Copyright 2020 collectSPACE.com All rights reserved.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47a





advertisement