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Author
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Topic: What do you use to seal homemade decals?
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SpaceDust
Member Posts: 115
From: Louisville, Ky USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 06-28-2012 04:56 PM
  
I have made my first set of homemade decals for my 1:96 scale Saturn V that I'm restoring and from reading the internet it seems every modeler uses a different laminate to seal them. What makes it worse is they all use and swear by different products. When you read about one good product then someone else says it's not any good. Some like sprays, some like brushing, and I've seen one recommendation to use a packing tape type product. After awhile it becomes very confusing and frustrating on what to use. Since there is a lot of good modelers here, can I have some suggestions on what you use as laminates and how it's used. (spray, brush on, others). I would like to have some suggestions on products before I screw up my project. |
Jay Chladek
Member Posts: 2272
From: Bellevue, NE, USA
Registered: Aug 2007
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posted 06-28-2012 08:05 PM
Before I recommend something, what did you use to make the decals (paper? printer?). Are they stickers or waterslide? |
SpaceDust
Member Posts: 115
From: Louisville, Ky USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 06-28-2012 08:13 PM
I used waterslide paper with a laser printer. Even though I read by using a laser printer they can be used as is, I've noticed that the print seems to come off easily. |
Jay Chladek
Member Posts: 2272
From: Bellevue, NE, USA
Registered: Aug 2007
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posted 06-29-2012 01:47 AM
Just grab yourself a can of Testors Model Master clear gloss on the standard Model Master paint rack (Testors Glosscote can also work, but I prefer the Model Master stuff, even if it costs slightly more) and spray a layer or two over it. Usually I do a light dusting layer, than a heavy layer before use. That should give it enough body for use and you decal solvent of choice will still work fine on it.Both clears are hobby strength lacquers. They are not enamels. There IS a Model Master high gloss clear enamel on the car rack, but don't use it as it is NOT the same stuff. These are not too hot unlike some clears and I use them exclusively for my own decals which I have done on laser photo copiers and with ALPS printers. The reason I recommend gloss instead of flat is in my experience, it is much easier to flat cover a home made decal after application than it is to gloss coat one if you happened to flat coat it first to seal it. Using a flat coat to seal the decal will make it fine for use, but it can absorb clearcoat like a sponge after it is on the model and STILL look flat. Since it is a laser decal, it will already be pretty durable. But I've found that the clear lacquer does give the decal a little more body. So it is less prone to wrinkling and distorting when applied. And of course the image also won't crack off as easily either. Just make sure you trim right up to the image before applying since the sheet is essentially one big decal. |
SpaceDust
Member Posts: 115
From: Louisville, Ky USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 06-29-2012 04:49 PM
Thanks Jay for your input and guidance, I really appreciate it and I'll give yours a try. I'm off to the hobby shop in the morning! |
Retro Rocket
Member Posts: 445
From: Santa Paula, Ca,. USA
Registered: Dec 2007
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posted 06-29-2012 08:29 PM
I've always had the best results using three coats of Krylon Matte Finish. It's the only good product Krylon makes and it's very forgiving and always gives a nice finish. Also it's tougher than any laquer or enamel. |
divemaster
Member Posts: 1376
From: ridgefield, ct
Registered: May 2002
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posted 07-02-2012 03:50 PM
"Future" through an airbrush. It also makes your model "lemony fresh" |
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