posted April 18, 2005 06:40 PM               

Is this paranoid on my part, or is security an issue with other collectors??

I still have the bulk of my collection at home, but with the ridiculously high prices for certain items, I felt a bank box would be a good idea.

What do you think??

posted April 18, 2005 07:26 PM               

You did the right thing by placing part of your collection in a safe deposit box. Many people put jewelry and stock certificates and other valuables there, why not collectibles.

I once has my coin collection in a safe deposit box for many years waiting for them to increase in value. However, when I returned to get them, I found that they had become tarnished because of the change of temperature and humidity in the large vault housing the safe deposit boxes. The coins were in sealed containers, but they were not in a vacuum. Air got into the containers and ruined the coins.

I would suggest that you place the covers and important items in a blank book like a white stockbook or in glassine envelopes inside of a book to keep out air and humidity. You have to use your own discretion. Don't put colored or black paper near the covers, they may bleed through to the covers. Make sure that the items lie flat. Check on the items occasionally and ask the attendant at the bank if the temperature is maintained.

Make a list of what is in the safe deposit box and make several copies of the list. Place the list in the box and in your collection at home. Then you will not have to worry if you safely stored an item or two in the box. If you have a will, put a copy of the list in the will.

No, you are not overly conscious of security. These days there is no such thing as too much security. []

posted April 19, 2005 03:51 PM               

no kidding.

Garry

posted April 19, 2005 04:09 PM               

Astro Bill gave you some good advice. However, I would advise that you use mylar sleeves as opposed to glassine envelopes to hold your covers. Glassine has wood pulp in it and can transfer acid to the cover inside (a bad thing). Mylar is inert.

posted April 19, 2005 09:11 PM               

I can give you the specs over the phone.

201-310-4418

Jay

posted April 19, 2005 09:39 PM               

Look to beat the price at Costco.com

A friend gave me a good piece of advice once... Don't set up your fireproof safe near a natural gas line. A house will only burn so hot for so long. Natural gas will burn real hot until the gas is turned off.

------------------
Kind Regards

Douglas Henry

posted April 20, 2005 08:51 AM            

quote:

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Originally posted by micropooz:
I have heard that some fireproof safes employ water in the walls of the safe that will release into the inside of the safe during a fire. Make sure your contents are in a water-tight container within the fireproof safe.

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This is very true. During a fire, the rise in temperature releases moisture from the fireproofing into the safe and “dampening” anything inside, especially paper items so to better protect them from the fire. The bad thing is moisture does build up inside the safe under normal circumstances causing metal items to rust and paper to mold.

Our safe at work is less than two years old. The nightly deposits are placed inside and by the next morning when we remove the checks and paper cash to deposit, they feel “damp”. Items that have been in there for a while have that funky mildew smell.

Just my two cents worth. Greg

posted April 20, 2005 10:22 AM               

All safes retain moisture because they're sealed and it's just the nature of the beast. However, there are small efficent heating elements that cost $40 and keep any moisture problems away. You can also use military desiccants that absorbe moisture and they need to have the moisture baked out of them about once a month if you're in a humid environment.

The fireproofing material used in the walls of safes is vermiculite, or powdered concrete. NOBODY in the safe making industry uses water inside their walls mainly due to rust issues and in a fire, the water would boil causing the containment vessel to rupture. The fire protection around the door is vital to prevent any heat or water coming breeching into the protected area. All quality safes with a 1 hour fire rating will more than adequately protect anything you put in there and in the event of a fire, there will be no moisture released in the safe.

The best value and my personal favorites are the Cannon line of safes. I have 5 of them, 3 are the model 24 Fire Rated. I've seen about 2 dozen safes that have been broken into or been through fires and I've never once seen a Cannon destroyed by either. Liberty, Browning & ASE safes are excellent, but they're a bit more money than Cannon.

For the best protection of your valuables, buy a safe made to protect guns or jewelry because these are made to withstand bad guys, fire or anything else other than a flood. There will be a tag on the safe, the TL rating tells you the "Tool" time it takes professional's to break into it and the FL for how long the interior can withstand fire.

You can also write off your safe if it's for business and your home owners insurance will give you a reduced rate if you show them you own a quality safe. It's also important to bolt your safe to the floor so it can't be moved or pushed over on it's back to make working on it easier. I saw first hand dozens of older well built safes that were broken into during the LA riots. Every high quality safe was beaten up with the dials & handles were broken off, the paint was scratched but none were opened by the bad guys.

I also have a Mielink fireproof safe that I bought at an auction about 20 years ago where I store papers & other collectibles. I live 1/2 mile from the beach where everything is humid at night and I've never had any problems with moisture or mildew in any safe regardless if it has a desiccant or not. To save money, check out local auctions, post a wanted sign at a gunstore or firing range to buy a used one.

Buy a quality safe, you'll have it forever and it will give you many years of peace of mind. Personally I'd never keep anything in a bank vault that's valuable because the bank is not responsible or liable for any loss or damage you suffer as a result of anything they do. Your contract with the bank clearly states that they take "reasonable measures" to protect your items but they are not responsible for anything that happens to it.

The most important thing to do is have quality pictures of your collectibles for insurance proof. ANY of the "good hands" insurance people tend to give you the finger without documentation of your items or proof of their value.

Ray

posted April 21, 2005 04:48 PM            

quote:

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Originally posted by Spacepsycho:
The fireproofing material used in the walls of safes is vermiculite, or powdered concrete. NOBODY in the safe making industry uses water inside their walls mainly due to rust issues and in a fire, the water would boil causing the containment vessel to rupture. The fire protection around the door is vital to prevent any heat or water coming breeching into the protected area. All quality safes with a 1 hour fire rating will more than adequately protect anything you put in there and in the event of a fire, there will be no moisture released in the safe.

---

After taking a look at the directions that came with our “well known name brand” safe……it clearly states: During a fire, moisture contained within the fireproofing will be released into the safe, do not store valuables such as negatives, photographs etc…etc.... as they could be damaged.

Also, a quick search on the internet concerning the releasing of moisture INTO the safe resulted in MANY known brands clearly stating the same caution on moisture being released from within THEIR fireproofing.

posted April 21, 2005 05:10 PM               

The safe's you're talking about releasing moisture into the protected area during a fire, are the cheaper fireproof safes and not a quality designed safe.

I've seen at least 3 dozen safes of all kinds go through fires of up to 3 hours without any damage to the contents from fire or moisture. So if your "name brand" safe is telling you that moisture is going to ruin your valuables in the event of a fire, I'd be looking for another safe to buy.

Again, check out Cannon safes. Their well made, have many access and they are extremely difficult to break into.

Ray

posted April 27, 2005 05:56 AM            

The problem I find though is getting access to it. I have to give several days working notice before I can go get stuff. When media have asked me for stuff to display 'on air',its always a battle to get access. Maybe its this particular bank? Don't know.

And Bank holidays can be a bind here in UK.

Phill
UK

posted April 28, 2005 06:53 PM               

As for documents, I would place something at the bottom of the safe deposit box, like a towel or a long flat sponge. This would keep the documents from direct dontact with the walls of the box. Of course, the items should be in individual sealed envelopes or containers of some kind.